Tales from the Road - Cuenca, Ecuador

First, we met with the team at the Municipal Tourism Foundation for Cuenca to review current and future plans for the development and promotion of the city as a Gastronomic Capital. After our meeting, we went to the "10 de Agosto Market" (see below). In Cuenca, many markets are named after historical dates in Ecuador, including August 10, which refers to the "First Cry of Independence" in 1809. On that day, a group of intellectuals, doctors and mestizos from Quito made the first call for independence from Spanish rule, which led to their immediate martyrdom. This event was the beginning of the struggle for the independence for Ecuador.

The market itself is quite large and offers both gastronomic options, and high quality products. We enjoyed some of the best dishes from various vendors such as the traditional "Motepillo" and continued our journey. The day was warm and we visited the famous "Plaza de las Flores", where a stall run by Carmelite nuns sells various homemade medicinal products.

The Plaza de las Flores is one of the most emblematic places in Cuenca. In addition to its visual beauty, it is the atrium of the church of Carmen de la Asunción, one of the main heritage buildings of the city. The square gives access to the Carmelite convent, where the cloistered nuns meticulously prepare various products, such as restorative wine, radish syrup, multivitamin drinks, honey, lotions for muscle aches, creams for skin problems and the popular "agua de pítimas", which is a distillate of plants with medicinal properties widely consumed by the locals. These items are available to the public through the turnstile of the convent or in two adjacent stores.

After resting at the beautiful Hotel Cruz del Vado, we headed to dinner at the Altitud restaurant of the Hotel Oro Verde, an independent chain of hotels in Ecuador. There we met with Executive Chef Jose Delgado and General Manager Byron Vallejo. The food was extraordinary and we were surprised to be served Dos Hemisferios wine, one of the few wine producers in Ecuador. The quality of the wine was superb. But don't look for it in the markets in your country; production is small and you will have to visit Ecuador to taste it.

The next day, we had lunch at Café Libre, which serves only plant-based cuisine. This is a growing trend among food-loving consumers and travelers. The cuisine of Paúl Flores and Rocío Valencia was out of this world, and the presentation (see above) of the dishes were worthy of a Michelin star, in our humble opinion.

Of course, we couldn't miss visiting a grocery store to see what was available for local consumers. We always visit a grocery store when we travel to get an idea of local products and any specialties we may not be able to find in the local markets.

We returned to take a short break at our magnificent hotel, where the restaurant and bar are located on the rooftop. The excellent view of the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception is not to be missed, especially at night. Here General Manager Sebastián Torres and Executive Chef Fernando Arévalo took wonderful care of us. Chef Fernando went to the local markets every day and found new and exotic fruits for us to try. Few executive chefs would take the time or interest in their guests to satisfy their exploratory whims, and Chef went the extra mile.

In the evening, we enjoyed another culinary experience at Tiestos Restaurant with Chef Juan Solano. It was another memorable meal, with an assortment of 20 aji (sauces) to accompany the dishes, one of which was an exceptional presentation of the largest shrimp (see below) we have ever seen. To finish the meal, Chef Juan created culinary art on a plate using a fruit-based gel. It was truly amazing, and Chef Juan is a warm and gracious host.

At this point, we were wondering if we needed to buy some new pants to make room for all the new dishes and flavors we were trying. The next morning, we gave a presentation to local stakeholders including restaurant owners about culinary tourism and our Association's Culinary Capitals program. We presented ideas about their next steps in their Culinary Capitals certification. After the meeting, we headed to the Museum of Aboriginal Cultures, directed by Carmen Cordero. This fascinating museum is a must-see in Cuenca. The Museum of Aboriginal Cultures exhibits over 5,000 objects from more than 20 pre-Columbian Ecuadorian cultures (see one example below).

The museum is prepared to receive tour groups and can even serve a homemade lunch before the group departs. Be sure to visit the gift store. Afterwards, we head to Mi Escondite Restaurant for lunch. This restaurant has been around for generations, run by the Tacuri family and is renowned for its preparation of "cuy", which is also known as guinea pig. It is clearly a favorite of the locals. The service and location were exceptional. The family was an excellent host.

We then headed to Cava San Miguel, Ecuador's only rum distillery, where we enjoyed a private tour. If you can, it is worth a visit to learn about the evolution of rum in the region. Did you know that sugar cane is still grown in Ecuador?

Then we met with Veronica Peralta at Paccari Chocolate, considered the most ethical chocolate company in the world. We had a formal chocolate tasting, just like you can enjoy a private wine tasting. We learned about the origin of the beans, how they are prepared and also the company's commitment to its farmers. This is an extraordinary company that is also B-corp certified.

That night we had dinner at El Mercado restaurant with host Roberto Mora. Another must-visit in Cuenca. The cuisine was exquisite, as was the decor and architecture of the building. We returned to our lovely hotel for the last night.

On the last day we participated in a local event at the 12 de Abril market, where a contest was being held to choose the city's culinary ambassador. I was asked to give a short speech about Cuenca as our first Culinary Capital in Latin America. It was lovely to see the cooks wearing the Culinary Capitals logo on their jackets (below).

For our farewell dinner, we visited Mansión Matilde, a remarkable destination restaurant famous for its blend of historic charm and modern culinary excellence. Located on the second floor of Casa Amarilla del Parque, this establishment offers a unique dining experience that combines traditional and contemporary elements.

During lunch that day we had the opportunity to visit Dos Sucres restaurant, run by chef Daniel Contreras. Daniel was raised as a vegetarian and impressed us with his vegetarian version of some classic cuencan favorites. Incindentaly, we interviewed chef Daniel after our trip. You can listen to the podcast here.

The interior of Mansión Matilde (below) is elegantly decorated, capturing the essence of early 20th century French décor. This ambiance provides a picturesque setting, perfect for a relaxing meal or special occasion. The restaurant is known for its varied menu, which includes French cuisine and a wide variety of international dishes, making it a culinary paradise in Cuenca. Our gracious hosts Teresa Flándoli and Lorena Encalada made sure it was a memorable evening.

On our last day, we visited the eclectic Museum of Gastronomy, managed by Miguel Urgilés, on the outskirts of the city. Here you can learn a lot about the history of food and agriculture in the region. Be sure to say hello to the llama "Bon Bon". And if you are nice to him, he will give you a kiss.

Five days were not enough to enjoy all that Cuenca has to offer. If you book a trip, plan to stay at least a week. We recommend connecting by plane from Quito or Guayaquil.