Le forme del gusto

15 March 2021
gusto

Riconoscere il sapore è facile. Fai come Heston Blumenthal prendi qualcosa da mangiare che hai nelle vicinanze, tappati il naso e fai un sol boccone! Un’esperienza totalmente diversa, vero? Forse anche un pò spiacevole.

Qualche giorno fa ho fatto lo stesso esperimento a casa. Ero solo e sentivo il bisogno di un tocco di conforto che solo un pezzo di cioccolato ti può dare! Tuttavia, passare troppo tempo in solitudine non aiuta  a trovare il nesso giusto tra i tuoi pensieri. I miei ultimamente tendono a trasformare quel pezzo di cioccolato in una amara sinfonia, e non solo dal punto di vista del semplice gusto. Infatti, mentre lo masticavo e lo lasciavo sciogliere in bocca, mi chiedevo se ultimamente abbiamo posto troppa enfasi sul gusto e se siamo realmente consapevoli di cosa sia veramente.

Non è più così facile parlare di questa sensazione. La prima complicazione arriva quando cerchiamo di individuare una percezione che nella vita reale, e intendo il 99,9% delle nostre esperienze quotidiane, sono coperte da una illusione che ha origine nel nostro cervello ( Ted talk in inglese ). Inoltre, c’è una sostanziale differenza tra degustatori o super-degustatori (non so se è la traduzione giusta, ma dire sapienti o non sapienti mi sembra ironicamente scorretto) a seconda di quante papille gustative abbiamo sulla nostra lingua (1), ma la cosa più importante da decifrare è quando la cucina diventa: “… un linguaggio attraverso il quale una società inconsciamente rivela la sua struttura ” (2). Come possiamo capire, il ventaglio di argomenti su cui possiamo affrontare la conoscenza del gusto è pressoché infinita, ma voglio cercare di evidenziare alcune caratteristiche sulla parte culturale e alcuni approcci scientifici.

Ad esempio, una parte della rivoluzione gastronomica degli ultimi 20 anni riguarda l’integrazione di studi neuroscientifici su come funziona il nostro sistema di percezioni sensoriali mentre si mangia. La collaborazione tra importanti chef e neuroscienziati aiuta a capire come cambia il gusto in base all’umore di una persona, all’atmosfera del luogo e alle aspettative che creiamo su un determinato ingrediente, piatto o anche su un menù degustazione. Inoltre, il nostro background culturale influenza il modo in cui sperimentiamo la gerarchia del gusto che percepiamo in bocca provando diverse sensazioni ( vedi il modello completo di Vilgis ); il triangolo culinario di Levi-Strauss spiega come il cibo possa creare  piacere, soddisfare e saziare il nostro appetito secondo il livello di preparazione (cotto o crudo) e di fermentazione di un determinato ingrediente. Ogni cultura ha standard, concetti di preparazione di alimenti e punti di vista diversi al riguardo delle proprie tradizioni culinarie, facendoci credere a ciò che è buono da mangiare in base alle gamme di consistenza, sapori e aromi (3).

È questa varietà che rende sensazionale l’esperienza culinaria. Scoprire nuove culture alimentari ci dà la versatilità necessaria per apprezzare un mondo completamente nuovo. Credo, tuttavia, che tendiamo a utilizzare i nostri sistemi sensoriali in forma errata, descrivendo un determinato ingrediente con termini che già conosciamo invece di lasciarci trasportare dalla novità e molte volte, confondendo il sapore con gli aromi e viceversa. Il fatto è che tendiamo a descrivere determinati cibi con aggettivi specifici che non hanno nulla a che fare con il sapore o l’aroma reale. Nel caso dell’inglese, la traduzione del senso del gusto è taste e questa non chiarisce la combinazione di entrambe le sensazioni presenti in bocca mentre si mangia. Per ovviare a questo problema è stato coniato il neologismo Flave per aiutare a descrivere i nostri tentativi culinari (4).

1a Parte di un articolo in due parti. Torna la prossima settimana per leggere la parte finale di questa storia.

Scritto da Massimo Bonmassari

Bibliografia:

  1. Bartoshuk, L. M., Duffy, V. B., Chapo, A. K., Fast, K., Yiee, J. H., Hoffman, H. J., … & Snyder, D. J. (2004). From psychophysics to the clinic: missteps and advances. Food Quality and Preference , 15 (7-8), 617-632.
  2. Lévi-Strauss, 1978:495 in https://culturemachine.net/vol-17-thermal-objects/cooked-or-fermented/
  3. Vilgis, T.A. Texture, taste and aroma: multi-scale materials and the gastrophysics of food. Flavour 2, 12 (2013). https://doi.org/10.1186/2044-7248-2-12
  4. Spence C.,  Gastrophysics: The New Science of Eating 2017 Penguin
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